Make Fire

Choose a location that is safe, functional, and minimizes environmental impact.

Site Selection Criteria:
┌─────────────────────┬────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Factor              │ Requirement                        │
├─────────────────────┼────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Wind                │ Sheltered or with a windbreak      │
│ Ground              │ Mineral soil, rock, or sand        │
│ Overhead clearance  │ No branches within 3 m / 10 ft    │
│ Distance from water │ At least 5 m / 15 ft from streams │
│ Distance from camp  │ Close enough for use, far enough   │
│                     │ to avoid spark hazards to gear     │
│ Drainage            │ Slight slope or flat; avoid hollows│
│                     │ where rain pools                   │
└─────────────────────┴────────────────────────────────────┘

Clear a circle approximately 1 m / 3 ft in diameter down to mineral soil. If on snow or wet ground, build a platform of green logs or flat stones.

Expected: A cleared, level fire site with no flammable debris within the cleared circle, adequate overhead clearance, and wind protection.

On failure: If no suitable ground exists, build a raised platform from 4-6 green (live) wrist-thick logs laid side by side. If wind is too strong, construct a windbreak from stacked logs, rocks, or a tarp angled at 45 degrees.

Step 2: Gather and Grade Materials

Collect materials in three categories, grading each by dryness and size.

Material Grading:
┌──────────┬──────────────────┬──────────────┬───────────────────────────┐
│ Category │ Diameter         │ Examples     │ Quantity needed           │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Tinder   │ Hair-thin fibers │ Birch bark,  │ Two fist-sized bundles    │
│          │                  │ dried grass, │                           │
│          │                  │ cedar bark,  │                           │
│          │                  │ fatwood      │                           │
│          │                  │ shavings,    │                           │
│          │                  │ cattail fluff│                           │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Kindling │ Pencil-thin to   │ Dead twigs,  │ Two armfuls, sorted by   │
│          │ finger-thick     │ split sticks │ thickness                │
├──────────┼──────────────────┼──────────────┼───────────────────────────┤
│ Fuel     │ Wrist-thick to   │ Dead standing│ Enough for intended burn │
│          │ arm-thick        │ wood, split  │ time (1 armload ≈ 1 hr)  │
│          │                  │ logs         │                           │
└──────────┴──────────────────┴──────────────┴───────────────────────────┘

Dryness Test:
- Snap test: dry wood snaps cleanly; damp wood bends
- Sound test: dry wood clicks when struck together; damp wood thuds
- Source priority: dead standing > dead leaning > dead on dry ground > dead on wet ground

Expected: Three sorted piles within arm's reach of the fire site. Tinder should be bone-dry and finely processed. Kindling should snap cleanly.

On failure: If all available tinder is damp, process inner bark (cedar, birch, poplar) by scraping with a knife edge to create fine fibers. Fatwood (resinous heartwood from dead conifers) ignites even when wet. As a last resort, use carried fire starters (cotton balls with petroleum jelly, wax-dipped cardboard).

Step 3: Construct the Fire Lay

Choose a fire lay based on purpose and conditions.

Fire Lay Decision Table:
┌──────────────┬──────────────────────┬──────────────────────────┐
│ Fire Lay     │ Best for             │ Construction             │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Teepee       │ Quick start, boiling │ Lean kindling against    │
│              │ water, signaling     │ a central tinder bundle  │
│              │                      │ in a cone shape          │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Log cabin    │ Sustained heat,      │ Stack pairs of sticks in │
│              │ cooking, drying      │ alternating layers like  │
│              │                      │ a cabin; tinder in center│
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Lean-to      │ Windy conditions     │ Push a green stick into  │
│              │                      │ ground at 30°; lean      │
│              │                      │ kindling against it with │
│              │                      │ tinder underneath        │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Platform     │ Snow/wet ground      │ Lay green logs side by   │
│              │                      │ side as a base; build    │
│              │                      │ teepee or log cabin on   │
│              │                      │ top                      │
├──────────────┼──────────────────────┼──────────────────────────┤
│ Star/Radial  │ Long burns with      │ Lay 4-5 logs radiating   │
│              │ minimal fuel         │ from center like spokes; │
│              │                      │ push inward as they burn │
└──────────────┴──────────────────────┴──────────────────────────┘

Leave gaps for airflow. The fire needs oxygen — pack materials loosely, not tightly.

Expected: A stable structure with tinder accessible for ignition, adequate airflow gaps, and kindling arranged so flames can climb from tinder to kindling to fuel progressively.

On failure: If the structure collapses, use a support stick driven into the ground as a central post. If airflow is poor (fire smokes but won't flame), open gaps between materials and ensure the wind-facing side has an opening at the base.

Step 4: Ignite the Tinder

Choose ignition method based on available tools.

Ignition Methods (ranked by reliability):
┌───────────────┬────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Method        │ Technique                                      │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Lighter/match │ Apply flame directly to tinder for 5-10 sec   │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Ferro rod     │ Hold rod against tinder; scrape striker down   │
│               │ rod at 45° with firm, fast strokes; direct     │
│               │ sparks into center of tinder bundle            │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Flint & steel │ Strike steel against flint edge to cast sparks │
│               │ onto char cloth laid on tinder                 │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Bow drill     │ Carve fireboard notch; place tinder below;     │
│               │ spin spindle with bow using steady, full-length│
│               │ strokes until coal forms in notch              │
├───────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ Solar (lens)  │ Focus sunlight through lens onto dark tinder;  │
│               │ hold steady until smoke appears; gently blow   │
└───────────────┴────────────────────────────────────────────────┘

Expected: Tinder begins to glow (ember) or produce a small flame within 30 seconds of spark/flame contact.

On failure: If sparks land but tinder won't catch, the tinder is too damp or too coarse. Process tinder finer (scrape, shred, fluff). If using a ferro rod, scrape some magnesium shavings onto the tinder first as an accelerant. If using bow drill, ensure the spindle and fireboard are the same dry softwood (willow, cedar, poplar) and the notch reaches the center of the spindle depression.

Step 5: Nurture the Flame

Once tinder catches, transition from ember to flame carefully.

1. If you have an ember (bow drill, flint & steel): fold the tinder bundle around the ember and blow gently with steady, increasing breaths until flame appears
2. Place the flaming tinder bundle into the prepared fire lay
3. Shield from wind with your body or a windbreak
4. Add the thinnest kindling first — individual pencil-thin sticks placed where the flame contacts them
5. Wait for each addition to catch before adding more

Expected: Flames climb from tinder through the smallest kindling within 1-2 minutes. Crackling sounds indicate combustion is self-sustaining.

On failure: If the flame dies at the kindling stage, the kindling is too thick or too damp. Split kindling thinner with a knife or use only the driest, thinnest pieces. If flame suffocates, the fire lay is too tight — gently lift material to improve airflow. Do not blow so hard that you scatter the embers.

Step 6: Build Up to Fuel Wood

Progressively increase material size.

1. Once kindling is burning steadily (2-3 minutes of sustained flame), add finger-thick sticks
2. Allow those to catch fully before adding wrist-thick wood
3. Arrange fuel to maintain airflow: lean pieces against each other or cross-stack
4. For cooking: let the fire burn down to a bed of coals (20-30 minutes) before placing a pot or grill

Fuel Progression:
  Tinder → Pencil-thin → Finger-thick → Wrist-thick → Arm-thick
  (each stage must be established before adding the next)

Expected: A stable, self-sustaining fire that produces consistent heat and can be maintained by adding fuel every 15-30 minutes.

On failure: If fire keeps dying when adding larger wood, you are jumping sizes too quickly. Go back one size smaller and build a larger bed of coals before graduating up. If wood hisses and steams, it is too wet — split it to expose dry inner wood, or prop pieces near (not on) the fire to dry before adding.

Step 7: Extinguish and Leave No Trace

Extinguishing Protocol:
1. Stop adding fuel 30-60 min before you need the fire out
2. Let wood burn down to ash
3. Spread coals and ash with a stick
4. Douse with water (pour, stir, pour again)
5. Feel with the back of your hand 10 cm / 4 in above the ashes
6. If any warmth is felt, repeat douse-stir-douse
7. When cold to touch, scatter the ash over a wide area
8. Replace any ground cover or duff that was moved
9. "Could someone walk by and not know a fire was here?"

Expected: Fire site is cold to the touch, no visible coals remain, and the area looks undisturbed.

On failure: If water is unavailable, smother with mineral soil (not organic duff, which can smolder). Stir and check repeatedly. Never leave a fire site until it is cold. If coals are buried in deep ash, scrape all ash aside and douse the exposed coals.

Validation

• Fire site was cleared to mineral soil or a platform was built
• Materials were gathered in three graded categories before ignition
• Fire lay structure allowed adequate airflow
• Tinder ignited and transitioned to kindling without dying
• Fire reached self-sustaining fuel stage
• Fire was fully extinguished — cold to touch, no visible embers
• Site left in Leave No Trace condition

Common Pitfalls

• Damp tinder: The most common failure. Always process tinder finer than you think necessary and source from dead standing material
• Smothering with fuel: Adding too much wood too fast cuts off oxygen. Build up gradually
• Ignoring wind: Wind can help or kill a fire. Use it for airflow but shield tinder during ignition
• Poor material sorting: Having to search for kindling while your tinder burns wastes critical time. Gather and sort everything before striking a spark
• Wet ground conduction: Even dry wood on wet ground will lose heat. Use a platform in damp conditions
• Incomplete extinguishing: Buried coals can reignite hours later. Always verify cold to touch

Related Skills

• purify-water — boiling water requires a sustained fire; the boiling method depends on this skill
• forage-plants — many plants provide tinder (birch bark, cattail fluff, dried grasses) and some require cooking
• paper-making — handcraft paper from plant fibres; shares fibre preparation and pulping techniques with tinder preparation